Each Chef Should Study Here’: Humble Turkish Eatery Earns Fourth on Ranking of London’s Leading Dining Destinations.
When compiling a roll of London’s best restaurants, one might anticipate well-known Michelin-starred names. But, tucked prominently among these food heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu situated in a outlying part of northern London.
An Surprise Recognition
The compact Turkish eatery, concentrating in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the fourth best restaurant in the capital by a respected gastronomic guide. This recognition has made the family totally shocked.
“I’m utterly astonished,” states a family member, alluding to his parents’ relentless work that resulted in their modest shop achieving such a prominent spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.
The Character of Modesty
The little venue, which started as a basic cafe before its change into a popular spot, has retained much of its original character. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, except for the impressive live cooking performance, the interior remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate place,” says the owner.
A Signature Creation: Tantuni
However, it’s all about the food, and this restaurant more than excels. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to maintain a succulent consistency.
The meat is then added into a large pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in gradually. As the meaty mixture bubbles up, freshly made lavaş—a soft bread—is laid on top to absorb all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is folded tightly inside.
The wrap is often enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a strong burst of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all in harmony.
Beyond the Basic Tantuni
Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A prominent food critic called this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.
For a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe is a treat. It is doused in a more modest amount of syrup than usual, imparting it a more intense, nuttier and more balanced profile.
Rising Above the Titans
Interestingly, this modest spot has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.
While two people could readily leave this place stuffed for less than £25, comparable meals at high-end establishments can run into many times that figure.
The Ethos of Hospitality
The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is situated well beyond the city’s central zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an costly city. There is an assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I don’t subscribe to that,” says the owner.
“I believe what is paramount is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”
This philosophy is echoed by the list’s curator, who stated that if he were in a position of power, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London train at this spot as a final lesson, to show them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to show what is attainable if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.
The Story of Hard Work
Unlike many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food did not apprentice at fancy restaurants. “I feel very pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.
Many restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its success is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of effort.
“Our mum was extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she managed a life outside work but her friends would come here to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. All of these responsibilities forged her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.
An Accomplishment for the Culture
This restaurant’s accolade is set to resonate beyond its own doors. “In my opinion numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, emphasising the wider significance of this gastronomic honour.